September 2008: South Pacific
Suva, Viti Levu, Fiji pt 1 (S 18.07.297 E 178.25.405)
It must be said, in the Fijian waters there is an island on every horizon. If you transit between the islands as we have you can see at least one and usually several islands at all times. For instance, we left Makogai Island after sunrise heading for Levuka, Ovalau which was less than twenty miles away and was able to see it from the anchorage. I have not written much about the sailing conditions as I think it tends to get a bit boring talking about the wind and the water and where the wind comes from and what the water is doing blah blah blah. I really just want to hit on some things related to the islands and people and some of our experiences. These pages are really just a drop in the bucket compared to the archive of pictures I have amassed as well as all the different experiences we all have had.
Since getting on in Rarotonga the sailing conditions have been pretty much all downhill, meaning, going with the wind and waves coming from our aft quarter. These have been ideal conditions until the wind stops and then the motor starts. We have not seen any seas worth mention or any high winds for that matter. About the only things of significance were the passages from Savusavu to Makogai and from Makogai to Levuka. This was the first time with me onboard that we were quartering into the waves and these waves were a washing machine. They were coming from a couple different directions and there was lot of chop. The winds were strong and all this slowed the boat down and made for an uncomfortable ride. On top of the washing machine I had been battling a sleep deficit due to the mast noise. I am well aware of my own limitations when lack of sleep is involved. Most of our passages we are all able to catch a nap in the afternoon or whenever we get off watch and these passages were just not the case for me. I tried to get that nap but it just would not happen.
The first night at our next stop we left the main up a few feet and that eliminated the banging noise. A good night of sleep was had by all of us. Then the next day was a lazy do nothing day on the boat. We never even put the dinghy in the water knowing we were going in to get a slip the next day. No more sleep disorders for a while at least.
A couple miles offshore Levuka we made a decision to keep going. This anchorage is fairly exposed to the southeast wind and a weather system was forecast for the next few days. We decided that we did not want to he holed up in this small town when we’d rather be stuck in Suva. At least we could drive to get the mast parts that would be arriving in a couple days. There appeared to be more pros for Suva than cons. We calculated our speed and distance to go and determined that we would arrive at sunset if we kept the speed up. The best part about this passage is that our heading kept changing as we rounded the island and eventually were going with the wind and the waves in the mid 7 knots. We made it to the Royal Suva Yacht Club anchorage with time to spare.
After passing the standard shipwrecks upon crossing the fringing reef we dropped the hook in about 15 feet of muddy green no-see-thru commercial harbor water. Great holding in the mud but not great swimming water.
The water is so shallow approaching the docks that we probably were touching it in places. We managed to squeeze into a spot between boats and got a side tie. As is always the case, all docks and all marinas and all cleats and all water and all power are just different enough to make it a new experience every time. This is a very small marina and the quality of the floating docks conveys that they don’t put much money into keeping them up. We were tied to a floating concrete dock yet when we turned the corner we stepped onto another floating concrete dock. When that ended we then stepped onto a really floating dock; individual floating cubes held together to make a floating walkway.
Once on land the quality of the building and the grounds greatly improved. This yacht club has a very long history and is vibrant in the local community. The setting is quite peaceful with a bar, pool tables, lounge area, laundry, showers, fuel, etc. A guard gate keeps it safe and the staff is friendly and the place is clean. This will be home for a few days. In its day this was probably a nice waterfront property and I wonder how the Suva Prison was able to set up shop right across the street, or is it the other way around. And from its appearance of what we can see above the solid wall is that it looks to be a hundred years old, and scary.
The other Dave and I got a taxi ride into downtown looking for lunch and then a walk thru the Fiji Museum. Little did we know this was the beginning of an odd day. Dave handed the driver his only $5 and the driver palmed it and said he was given a $2 (they have $2 bills here). Dave put up a good argument as he knew he was right and told the driver to call the police. The driver left.
The museum was located in the center of a large garden that in its heyday, the turn of the century, I’m sure was something to see. Now it is a bit overgrown and a little haphazard. The museum buildings themselves have seen better days and eventually the artifacts will suffer the fate of the tropics. But, inside the building in the flimsy, sometimes broken glassed cases are some incredible items that afford a glimpse of the history of Fiji. I have read so many historic dates that I can’t keep them straight so I won’t try. Fiji was feared by seafarers as a place of cannibalism and those fears are well founded. They were one of the last to stop the practice. In this museum there are many items related to that as well as tools and weapons that played such an enormous part of their culture. I really appreciate museums and will recommend taking the time to see this one. It may not be the biggest or the best but there is value putting yourself in the moment and thinking back in time as to what the item is and what it was used for.
A funny thing happened as we were walking from the museum to the busy downtown area. One of the local older guys met up with us on the sidewalk and started talking. We casually walked and talked about Fiji and where we were from and that we were here to look around and wanted to also see the produce market. At this point he took us off the main street to a waterfront walk supposedly going to the market. Somewhere along the line he brought out some carved wood trinkets; gets them in your hand and keeps talking. Then his friend showed up and worked on me. Gets the product in your hand, keeps talking and then carves your name in the piece. These guys were smooth. The other Dave and I parted with some cash and walked away laughing at how we just got bamboozled. Those guys were so good at what they did. The pieces are nothing we would ever buy as a trinket and I assume mine will make it as far as the fence in my backyard.
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