14) Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji Pt 2

August 2008: South Pacific

Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji Part 2 (S 16.46.661 E 179.20.067) 

                          

                Here in Savusavu we are attached to a mooring ball in a small field of them off the Copra Shed Marina, of which is steeped in history.  After having ventured in town and a little way each direction of the coast it is obvious that this building is the center of attention.  Thru the years there have been repairs, upgrades and re-building to this site and the current building and services is well on par with the best that can be offered to cruisers.  This building conveniently houses, the marina office, restaurants, internet café, trinket shops, chandlery, Savusavu Yacht Club, travel agent, realtor and on site is a decent shower and laundry service. 

               

                It might appear that this place is paradise but keep in mind there is a trade-off.  Part of checking-in required a trek to the local hospital to pay the health certificate fee.  Above is the hospital and after having been inside Bob mentioned something about the electricity was not working.  Another reason for the delay in the boats parts that we need is that the airport that is closest to us is closed for repairs.  Normally it would take 3-5 days and it would now take 2 weeks or so.                                                 

              

                Our entire stay on this mooring ball came with a perk in the guise of a soundtrack.  Well, uhm, after the 1^st 12 hours of so the thrill has worn off.  On the shoreline about 400’ from us is a covered area with seating for about 100.  There is also a stage and a live band.  It sounds great so far.  But, this band is all fired up.  From mid-morning until every night up to 9-10 pm a preacher has been preaching like there is no tomorrow and to get his point across he’s talking, I mean yelling, the local language and some English into a microphone.  The music has a western influence and ranges from pop to country and in between songs there is a lot of yelling, clapping, chanting, etc.  The tone and aggressive preaching sounds political but then the songs are somewhat pleasant.   Ok, the first day was alright.  But, here it is many days later and Sunday morning and yep they are going at it again.  Today is special because there seems to be some chorus going on.  It would be nice if the music was south pacific and/or Fijian without a religious overtone and that is what has burned us out.

     

                We found the local ANZ bank ATM and immediately got in the groove with the local currency.  Out first lunch was truly impressive.  The quality of the prepared food in the restaurants has so far been above par.  The small downtown on this water setting and the friendliness of the people gives this place a great vibe.  Once you start a conversation with anyone a smile comes to their face and the warmth of the Savusavu people comes alive.

                 

                With all this talk of kava you’d think Bob was up to no good on the street.  They were actually exchanging cell phone numbers as this guy was offering to wash, wax. Etc.  It turns out he is without a dinghy and with us on a mooring and needing our dinghy there was no way to strike a deal.  Regarding cell phones, Bob bought one in Rarotonga and in each country just buys a new Sim card with minutes and it works.  It is much cheaper to make calls to the U.S. on the cell than the satellite phone.    

                                          

                        Here in Fiji Kava is much more visible than the previous stops we/I’ve made.  Tradition and protocol requires a presentation of unprepared Kava root to the chief of a village where we intend to anchor in their water since it is considered theirs.  A brief ceremony is enacted with the chief and the captain and crew and permission is usually granted.  Of course I picked up Kava for that BBQ I keep rambling about.  This time I talked more in depth with the vendors and learned about the different grades of the Kava based on the section of the prepared root which imparts specific flavors.  I think I learned more from the kid selling it that isn’t old enough to drink it than anyone else.  I now know the ratio of water to dry powder and well it’s going to be a special New Years’ this year.   

  

                                                                                                  

 

                    These people are so friendly.  Everyone in the farmer’s market was very attentive and helpful.  I would usually ask if I could take their picture and their eyes would light up.  The kids on the street were funny.  The girls would get really shy and giggle and group together and the boys would jump around and pose and just act goofy.  It was a bit special to see this.