93) Panama

Carti Tupile Nargana, Comarca de Kuna Yala, Republic de Panama

9° 28.486 N 78° 57.689 W

Carti Tupile top right, Yantupu on left, Sugtupu on right.  The little squiggle at the bottom is the first attempt to anchor.  The other little squiggle is the pattern that is drawn while swinging at anchor.

I drew the 3am watch and was asleep for the early morning maneuvering.  I came up right before dropping the anchor for the first time and what a sight to see.  These islands are incredible.  This is the stuff you see on national geographic or documentaries.  The islands we were approaching were tiny and covered with huts to the waterline.  There were kayaks and canoes and tiny little huts on stilts over the water.  They turned out to be the toilets.  There is not much swimming downstream of these islands. 

Carti Yantupu in the background.

Yantupu in the background.

We dropped the hook the first time and it appeared to be in the path of the swells and might not have been a very good spot.  We wanted to be away from all the other boats that anchor in the lee of Sugtupu.  We ended up taking a bigger risk and anchoring in the lee of Tupile and between it and Yantupu.  We later learned that we were the first boat to ever anchor there and it was fantastic.  Soon after securing the anchor a guy came out in a Cayuco and introduced himself in perfect English.  His name is Glomildo Valles Smith.  But, he said it’s easier for people to call him Mr. G.  I did and so did some of his neighbors.  He is a full-blooded Kuna born and raised here in the islands.  He lived in Salt Lake City, Utah for 5 years with a Mormon family and got a degree from Brigham Young University in tourism and hospitality.  He invited us to his island and welcomed us with open arms.  He said that he watched us anchor over by the other island and he was going to let those guys have us.  But, when we moved he moved right in.  He is 40 today, 41 tomorrow and also the Saila of his island.  The Saila is the figurehead leader of the island.  Unfortunately, it is a non-paying job but he does receive all the gifts from visitors and pretty much makes the rules on his island.  His business card, yes business card! states: Kuna tour guide, native history, museum, dance, foods, travel by authentic Cayuco, jungle river and waterfall tours, snorkeling, fishing, sightseeing, beaches, transportation assistance, accommodations, quality Molas for sale and English speaking.  This guy was on the ball, very industrious and very personable.  He adopted us and we adopted him for our entire stay.  We loved this spot so much that we ended up staying here 2 nights and did not see any other anchorages.  His entire village welcomed us warmly and this definitely made the difference. 

  

Tupile

     Sugtupu on left, Yantupu on right. 

                                                          

Yantupu in the background.

Tupile   

Glomildo in the background center.

Glomildo invited us to his island for a tour and we happily accepted.  John customarily made immediate friends and we soon learned that the kids love to have their picture taken.  The adults want to be paid $1 USD in order to have their picture taken and are adamant about it.  On Sugtupu taking pictures is not allowed unless you get permission and pay the money except for certain situations.  We had to learn quickly what the rules were.  Basically, the kids love it, the elders run away and the young men and women are fairly shy about it.  Most everybody was very fascinated with the camera and wanted to see themselves as soon as the picture was taken.  It was a kick interacting with all of them language barrier and all.

  

New Construction

Glomildo’s sister makes Molas for sale.

Glomildo walked us through the entire island and told us as much as he could squeeze in.  We saw his home that is also a museum, the Mormon Church of which no one goes because they all like to smoke and drink, his sister making Molas, the market, new construction, plants and flowers.  He is very proud of his island and heritage and a very knowledgeable ambassador.

Literally, the outhouse

  

                                              

      

   

  

Caibo in the background

      

 

 

  

   

 

As if all this wasn’t enough we then went over to Sugtupu.  It had been arranged earlier for us to meet the Saila and take his picture and only him.  At first we were told that no pictures were allowed and then found out that if you had a buck…  in the end I did not get very many shots here because I did not have any of the almighty greenbacks on me.

I was really very interested in seeing the trinkets for sale yet that turned out to be the least interesting thing about this island.  We happened upon these islands during a several day festivity and today was the day that the women drink rum in the big hut from 9-12 or so.  We looked in and it was a riot.  The large hut was filled with about 50 women of all ages drinkin’ and hootin’ and hollerin’.  Many came stumbling out the door and staggered down the streets with the help of their compatriots.  This was one helluva sight to see.  The men had finished their festivities the day before and we heard there are a lot of confrontations during that time. 

Glomildo took us on an abbreviated tour and we found out that there were about 2,000 people on this island.  There was a post office, more stores and restaurants and official offices related to construction, travel, etc.  Keep in mind that the streets are not paved; there were only a few concrete structures and most of the floors were dirt.  Since it was getting to be lunchtime we stayed here and ate.  Glomildo wanted to take us to a restaurant but they already were full so he parked us in a bar.  Then the beers started coming for free.  And, this was the coldest beer in the Caribbean!  They do like to drink around here.  This island has an operating generator and electricity for the refrigerators and TV’s.  The first person to buy us a beer was the schoolteacher.  There was a very long conversation translated by John about schooling, history of the island, people and places, etc.  This was another very nice, warm and welcoming experience.  

Later this afternoon we went back to Tupile to watch an informal dance.  There were about 10 dancers and a few had bamboo flutes and it was quite entertaining.  But, the entertainment really happened when all the whities took to the floor and tried to do it.  It was really hard and many of them had a good laugh.  We took Glomildo and his cousin back to the boat and they fixed rice, yucca (yoo ka) and fish soup and it was fantastic.  We learned a lot from listening to him talk about these islands and life here.  It is the dry season and they have to go a mile to the mainland and up the river to get drinking water and bring it back.  There is very little help from the Panamanian government and they are on their own.  In Panama job opportunities don’t exist for Kuna’s and they are getting by here from trading with the tourists.  Glomildo very much wants to go back to the U.S. and earn a living and took the opportunity to make a plea for a position on board.  He was successful and supposed to meet us in Colon and go with the boat to California.  He intends to try to make it there if possible or go back to Utah.  This guy has ambition and drive to make this happen and I hope it works.  He really wants to further himself so he can help his community.             

Momma always said, Life is like a box of chocolates….

Over 6,000 miles so far to The San Blas Islands, Panama