93) Panama

Carti Tupile Nargana, Comarca de Kuna Yala, Republic de Panama

9° 28.486 N 78° 57.689 W

Carti Tupile top right, Yantupu on left, Sugtupu on right.  The little squiggle at the bottom is the first attempt to anchor.  The other little squiggle is the pattern that is drawn while swinging at anchor.

I drew the 3am watch and was asleep for the early morning maneuvering.  I came up right before dropping the anchor for the first time and what a sight to see.  These islands are incredible.  This is the stuff you see on national geographic or documentaries.  The islands we were approaching were tiny and covered with huts to the waterline.  There were kayaks and canoes and tiny little huts on stilts over the water.  They turned out to be the toilets.  There is not much swimming downstream of these islands. 

Carti Yantupu in the background.

Yantupu in the background.

We dropped the hook the first time and it appeared to be in the path of the swells and might not have been a very good spot.  We wanted to be away from all the other boats that anchor in the lee of Sugtupu.  We ended up taking a bigger risk and anchoring in the lee of Tupile and between it and Yantupu.  We later learned that we were the first boat to ever anchor there and it was fantastic.  Soon after securing the anchor a guy came out in a Cayuco and introduced himself in perfect English.  His name is Glomildo Valles Smith.  But, he said it’s easier for people to call him Mr. G.  I did and so did some of his neighbors.  He is a full-blooded Kuna born and raised here in the islands.  He lived in Salt Lake City, Utah for 5 years with a Mormon family and got a degree from Brigham Young University in tourism and hospitality.  He invited us to his island and welcomed us with open arms.  He said that he watched us anchor over by the other island and he was going to let those guys have us.  But, when we moved he moved right in.  He is 40 today, 41 tomorrow and also the Saila of his island.  The Saila is the figurehead leader of the island.  Unfortunately, it is a non-paying job but he does receive all the gifts from visitors and pretty much makes the rules on his island.  His business card, yes business card! states: Kuna tour guide, native history, museum, dance, foods, travel by authentic Cayuco, jungle river and waterfall tours, snorkeling, fishing, sightseeing, beaches, transportation assistance, accommodations, quality Molas for sale and English speaking.  This guy was on the ball, very industrious and very personable.  He adopted us and we adopted him for our entire stay.  We loved this spot so much that we ended up staying here 2 nights and did not see any other anchorages.  His entire village welcomed us warmly and this definitely made the difference. 

  

Tupile

     Sugtupu on left, Yantupu on right. 

                                                          

Yantupu in the background.

Tupile   

Glomildo in the background center.

Glomildo invited us to his island for a tour and we happily accepted.  John customarily made immediate friends and we soon learned that the kids love to have their picture taken.  The adults want to be paid $1 USD in order to have their picture taken and are adamant about it.  On Sugtupu taking pictures is not allowed unless you get permission and pay the money except for certain situations.  We had to learn quickly what the rules were.  Basically, the kids love it, the elders run away and the young men and women are fairly shy about it.  Most everybody was very fascinated with the camera and wanted to see themselves as soon as the picture was taken.  It was a kick interacting with all of them language barrier and all.

  

New Construction

Glomildo’s sister makes Molas for sale.

Glomildo walked us through the entire island and told us as much as he could squeeze in.  We saw his home that is also a museum, the Mormon Church of which no one goes because they all like to smoke and drink, his sister making Molas, the market, new construction, plants and flowers.  He is very proud of his island and heritage and a very knowledgeable ambassador.

Literally, the outhouse

  

                                              

      

   

  

Caibo in the background

      

 

 

  

   

 

As if all this wasn’t enough we then went over to Sugtupu.  It had been arranged earlier for us to meet the Saila and take his picture and only him.  At first we were told that no pictures were allowed and then found out that if you had a buck…  in the end I did not get very many shots here because I did not have any of the almighty greenbacks on me.

I was really very interested in seeing the trinkets for sale yet that turned out to be the least interesting thing about this island.  We happened upon these islands during a several day festivity and today was the day that the women drink rum in the big hut from 9-12 or so.  We looked in and it was a riot.  The large hut was filled with about 50 women of all ages drinkin’ and hootin’ and hollerin’.  Many came stumbling out the door and staggered down the streets with the help of their compatriots.  This was one helluva sight to see.  The men had finished their festivities the day before and we heard there are a lot of confrontations during that time. 

Glomildo took us on an abbreviated tour and we found out that there were about 2,000 people on this island.  There was a post office, more stores and restaurants and official offices related to construction, travel, etc.  Keep in mind that the streets are not paved; there were only a few concrete structures and most of the floors were dirt.  Since it was getting to be lunchtime we stayed here and ate.  Glomildo wanted to take us to a restaurant but they already were full so he parked us in a bar.  Then the beers started coming for free.  And, this was the coldest beer in the Caribbean!  They do like to drink around here.  This island has an operating generator and electricity for the refrigerators and TV’s.  The first person to buy us a beer was the schoolteacher.  There was a very long conversation translated by John about schooling, history of the island, people and places, etc.  This was another very nice, warm and welcoming experience.  

Later this afternoon we went back to Tupile to watch an informal dance.  There were about 10 dancers and a few had bamboo flutes and it was quite entertaining.  But, the entertainment really happened when all the whities took to the floor and tried to do it.  It was really hard and many of them had a good laugh.  We took Glomildo and his cousin back to the boat and they fixed rice, yucca (yoo ka) and fish soup and it was fantastic.  We learned a lot from listening to him talk about these islands and life here.  It is the dry season and they have to go a mile to the mainland and up the river to get drinking water and bring it back.  There is very little help from the Panamanian government and they are on their own.  In Panama job opportunities don’t exist for Kuna’s and they are getting by here from trading with the tourists.  Glomildo very much wants to go back to the U.S. and earn a living and took the opportunity to make a plea for a position on board.  He was successful and supposed to meet us in Colon and go with the boat to California.  He intends to try to make it there if possible or go back to Utah.  This guy has ambition and drive to make this happen and I hope it works.  He really wants to further himself so he can help his community.             

Momma always said, Life is like a box of chocolates….

Over 6,000 miles so far to The San Blas Islands, Panama

92) Panama

San Blas Islands, Republic de Panama

This passage was planned so that we were supposed to arrive before dark.  We were heading to an archipelago and it is littered with hazards in the way of rocks and very small islands.  The rule of thumb says to never make an approach to this kind of anchorage in the dark.  Speaking for myself for many hours I was looking forward to dropping the hook and sleeping without rocking.  After a while I get burned out from smelling diesel fumes and rocking and rolling.  One can only read so much or listen to so much music or nap.  We all were looking forward to anchoring tonight.

 

San Blas Islands, Republic de Panama

We noticed soon after we left the dock that the boat was going slower at the same engine rpm’s.  We deduced that it was growth on the hull and prop and later confirmed it.  But, it slowed us down more than a knot and that affected our schedule dramatically.  We arrived at the island we were going to drop the hook at after the sun had set.  There appeared to be just enough time to get in.   

On the approach we noticed whitewater and knew that it was the reef.  There appeared to be a hole and that is what we headed for.  I was very apprehensive and not comfortable.  John had the route planned to take us right by the edge of the reef and it turned out to be too close.  While approaching the reef the whitewater connected from both sides effectively closing the entrance.  We got down to 4’ of water below the keel when Nancy yelled out the depth and I said turn to the right and full throttle.  We really needed to enter about a 1,000’ feet to the left.  The waypoint was too close to the reef associated with this island and the electronic chart cannot be relied upon, as all charts are really just guidelines.  We did what boaters are supposed to do and went back out to sea to wait for sunrise.  Ugh.  John really wanted to see Tiger Island but we agreed to modify the plan.  We ended up motoring all night and went north to the next place we planned to see.  This turned out to be a very good decision. 

San Blas Islands, Republic de Panama

91) Columbia

Club de Pesca Marina

Cartagena, Columbia

10° 24.940 N 75° 32.699 W

Uhm, a monkey.    

      Beautiful, brand new bathroom/shower.

On my way to the shower this morning I passed one of the local workers on the dock and he had his pet monkey with him on a leash.  He was a screecher all by himself tied to the tree.  But, a cute little screeching monkey.

After taking on fuel and coffee and rum from the little shop on the dock we were on our way.  It was overcast and not a very bright day.  To get out of this bay back out to the open ocean we have to retrace our path in and it takes about an hour to get out.  Right at the mouth of the bay there were several small wooden kayaks and canoes with guys trying to sell fruits and vegetables and trinkets to the small boats coming and going.  The first few hours of this passage were smooth and nice but then turned miserable.  We were in 8-12’ seas and I saw several 12-15’ waves go under us.  This passage was kinda miserable since it rolled so much.  And, we motored the whole way.    

90) Columbia

Club de Pesca Marina

Cartagena, Columbia

10° 24.940 N 75° 32.699 W

I took a walk over to Castillo San Felipe de Barajas this morning.  Since we were so close it was a sight that I could not pass up.  The walk through town was, interesting.  Cars go the same way and they don’t bump into each other and I haven’t figured out how they do it.  It looks like that old vibrating game with little plastic football players on it.  The objects seem to move all over the place in a cosmic rhythm… oh where am I going with this.  The castle was impressive.  Built several hundred years ago, built in the 1,600s? And it has stood the test of time.  There were only a handful of allowed entrances into the interior of the place and the tunnels seemed to only lead to where the soldiers slept.  Along the narrow and low-ceiling tunnels there were nooks off to the sides just big enough for a person to lie down.  There was room for nothing else.  The ceilings were so low that I had to stoop and it appears that they weren’t very tall in those days.  And like all tourist attractions there was a gift shop at the top.  If the soldiers and politicos only knew that trinkets and bottles of water would be hawked on the steps of the castle in nineteen diggety…  

(The castle, designed by the Dutch engineer Ricardo Carr, was constructed in the year 1,657.  Later on, the military engineer Antonio de Arevalo completed additions consisting of defensive walls and underground tunnels and galleries.)

View of Club de Pesca Marina from atop the castle.

Old town Cartagena, Columbia

 

I would be exaggerating if I used the words South America in the next statement.  So, pay attention.  I just saw every horse in Columbia walking down the street!

Earlier today we heard about the parade of horses that was supposed to happen in the late afternoon.  We eventually narrowed it down that it started about 530 or so.  I made my way over the bridge and sat on the curb and waited.  While waiting I saw a guy on a motorcycle do a u-turn and so did the cop.  While giving the guy a ticket the guy was doing his best to talk his way out of it.  Granted, there was no sign and he probably has a good case, in America!  While getting his ticket he was obviously agitated and that got the attention of the other cops.  There was about 6-8 cops right there milling about the scene and they all had some kind of talk with the guy.  In the end, right before getting on his cycle he got louder and louder and more animated and pissed.  And I think the cops knew it.  When he got on his cycle he revved the throttle and gave his best glare through the slot in his helmet, yes he is concerned about his health and safety and wears a helmet while riding his motorcycle, to the cops closest to him and raced off up and over the bridge.  Everybody clapped when the next guy who tried to make a u-turn stopped when the cop blew his whistle.

 

Back to the parade.  There were some carts, horses pulling carts and people riding horses.  Lots of people lined the streets, too.  And lots of people cheered.  Come to think of it so did some of the riders.  I did not know what to expect and it very much surprised me.  Seeing these horses and some riders in costume conjured up images of when horses really did ply these streets.  This event is a tradition and in a sense they take it pretty seriously.  Some also partied hard on the way cause I saw many a bottle being handed from rider to rider.  Some of the ladies were dressed nicely.  Some of the men were dressed very traditional.  But, some of the kids dressed in style were just too damn cute.  This event was a family affair in the Columbian way and something not to be missed.  

Towards the end of the parade I made my way to old town.  I wanted to hit the Internet for the last time until we get to Panama, get some ice cream and spend the remaining Pesos.  Cruising through town I came upon some dancers and managed to squeeze in and get some shots. These kids were fantastic!  The energy and innocence was electric.  It was nice to be in the square with all the families and locals watching this happen. 

I tried my best to buy some gourmet coffee with my Pesos and I just did not have enough.  I thought maybe they would feel sorry for the language barrier but they would not cave in.  I tip my hat to my foe.  But all was not lost.  I have been trying to get a specific glass coke bottle.  In restaurants they take the bottle and in stores they are plastic.  I finally found a pizza place and with the language barrier I managed to get out the door with the glass bottle.  I would have wanted one that was unopened but I could not stop them.  So, there I was, a Coke commercial coming to life, in the dim streetlights walking down the narrow streets of old town in Cartagena drinking Coke out of a bottle.  Funny, the only trinkets I cherish the most are Coke bottles from places other than what I call home.  My collection started back in the early 80s when my Dad traveled far and asked me if I wanted anything.  To this day I have an eclectic collection of Coke bottles from both hemispheres east and west.  I’m glad I didn’t follow through with collecting pianos.  I made a gallant effort at it but got sidetracked.