8) Asau, Savai’i, Samoa Pt 1

August 2008: South Pacific

Asau, Savai’i, Samoa Part 1 (S 13.30 W 172.39)

                          

                The entrance of Asau Harbor on first impression coming from offshore is by far one of the most intimidating I have ever seen.  There is a shipwreck on the right fairly high and almost dry deep within the breaking water.  Then, to the left of that is the entrance which is somewhat marked.  Our first attempt to enter to the left of the shipwreck put us in very shallow water and allowed us a slight bump on the bottom.  We turned around and headed back the way we came.  The inside of this bay is green water and the bottom cannot be seen like in clear blue water.  So, we could not see the hazards.  Outside the entrance we called another boat on the hook inside and got some guidance.  With their tips and our GPS we made for the entrance.  At first it appeared dangerous but once we got between the breaking waves the deep water of the short channel was more visible.  Unfortunately, you have to commit to make this entry and only then do you realize it is actually safe.  But, come on, white water is white water and it’s worse when it is on both sides and you can hear it, see it….

                       

 

                Once inside the entrance and swinging on the hook things tend to settle way down.  Making sure the hook is set, the anchor line snubbed and systems powered down all that is left to do is turn on the anchor light.  Without leaving the boat we try to do some re-con of what’s available on shore and this shore looks pretty sparse.  In other words, not many structures, lots of coconut trees and an empty bay except for us and two other sailboats.

                 

                In the previous journal about Apia there was a letter that we obtained and in the picture above is the government official that we gave it to in Savai’i.  He paddled from his home on the shore a carved wooden outrigger, bailing at the same time, and met Bob at the transom and took the letter.  We inquired about buses and car rentals and told the buses don’t go where we want to go.  He then offered his brother in law as a tour guide in that we pay him $200 WST (Western Samoa Tala) and he will drive us around the island wherever we want to go.  This was early in the morning and we told him we’d be by later to do the driving tour.                                                                                                    

 

                We landed the dinghy at the only safe spot we could find and began the walk to make our connection for the tour.  We looked at flowers, pigs, stuff… it was going so well, and then…

 

We heard some rustling in the bush off the side of the rode and out popped…

                                                                                                                                        

 

                A wild native!  We froze in our tracks and tried not to make eye contact or any movements that might set him off.  After all he was carrying a machete and it looked like he knew how to use it. 

 

                Fearing for our lives we quickly strategized and pushed Bob into harm’s way.  Look closely, he’s packing heat with that full water bottle and they are both sizing each other up.

 

                The little terror came to his senses and realized we might have been a bit too much for him to take on.  That and some Bazooka bubble gum sent him on his way to go back to playing with his friends.

                                                                                                                                                                 

 

                We noticed in Samoa there are many man-made swimming pools that are open to the community and usually filled with water and people.  The guy that took the paperwork has a house right on the beach and sticking with tradition has a grave and monument in his front yard of his father.  Interesting, he does not have a car but he has a cell phone and an adorable daughter.

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

7) Apia, Upoli, Samoa Pt 2

August 2008: South Pacific

Apia, Upoli, Samoa Part 2 (S 13.50 W 171.55) 

                                      

                Credit must be given where due and that is to the new Apia Marina.  We were greeted just inside the greater bay area that this marina was built in and escorted to our slip.  There were several dockworkers available and lots of extra help; maybe too much.  After finding the right size slip and getting tied-off the hospitality really kicked in.  There were four different officials needed for our clearance and they were the most efficient any of us has ever seen.  Nice way to begin the stay.

                As usual in a new port a reconnaissance is taken on.  The other Dave and I set out to see what’s around this town and in no special order we were looking for: ATM, grocery store, ice cream, internet, farmer’s market, etc.  OK and a local bar for an ice cold beer.  We did find the watering hole after walking around town and we did suffer down another Vailima, the local Samoan beer.  This is not our favorite beer and seems to be the most popular one here.  Ugh.  Funny thing is that it took a day or so before we discovered the ice cream shop directly across the street from the marina!  If you look to the right of the tower in the picture below you can see a golden M that must mark the spot.

                                                                     

                     

                Granted, we were really thirsty with all that walking and Apia was hot and muggy but seriously we just got here and all that beer would take us at least a week to drink.

 

               

               This particular internet/gaming, uhm, place was different than all others I have seen.  Unfortunately it was upstairs and a little warm.  The internet, yah it’s still around, seems to be everywhere, almost.  These places are usually pretty busy, too.  It’s nice to be able to get weather information and just general e/m stuff to allay the feeling of being out of the loop.

                                                                                                                                                                    

                I really like to go into local markets such as grocery stores, produce markets and fish markets to get another glimpse into the local life.  Apia did not disappoint.  The indoor flea-market was packed with trinkets, produce vendors and a large prepared-food court all an ordered chaos.  We must’ve been here at a peak time as it was packed.  The produce market several blocks away was something else all together.  Immediately after you enter and on the left is a small gathering of men sitting around the Ava bowl.  I was enlightened as to the water quality and after a second thought I did not partake.  In my own way I beat that game though in buying a small dry bag of the prepared pepper plant and now I can make 5-gallons of the brew when I get home.  I have not acquired an Ava bowl because the one I want is quite large and heavy.  The bowl costs about $80 USD and the DHL shipping costs over $200 USD.  There is a particular design that is fairly basic with many thin legs holding it up.  We saw it and drank from it in Pago Pago and here in Apia they use the same style.  Although, there are many other versions with beautiful intricate carvings and leg styles that are very tempting.

 

                At the flea market and the produce market there was a section in the corner near the entrance where the Ava was.  Usually a group of men were sitting around and one person was scooping and serving.  In the center of the picture above are the small bags of Ava for sale.  Each bag will make 5-gallons.  Yes, an Ava/BBQ is on the list of things to do when I get home.

                                                                                                                                                           

 

 

 

 

                                                                     

      

 

                                                                                                                                         

                 We wanted to visit Savai’i after leaving Apia and knew that we needed clearance before going there.  Bob had to do a little legwork (meaning a couple trips and some other stuff) in order to apply and get an authorization in the form of a letter.  We were advised to give this letter to an official in Savai’i.

                                                                                                                                                             

                We did some pre-departure stuff and one of them was laundry.  Luckily, there was a Laundromat within a couple blocks.  I told the worker that was handling my clothes that there was some diesel on the items in the Ziplocs.  I should have been more specific.  I think I needed to say use soap or use more soap because that small load of my clothes now all smell a little like diesel.  I hung the diesel splashed shirt and shorts off the back of the boat and hope they magically give up the stink.  

                While waiting for the laundry the other Dave and I saw several people walking down the street with pink cake boxes.  Like moths to a flame we found the bakery.  The owner was very nice and offered us a ‘mistake’ in the form of a chocolate cake with cream filling.  Several times I have stepped onboard with a box of donuts for a departure but since we could not find any this would do.

    

 

 

                                  (This is a clip of Present Moment leaving Apia for Savai'i.)

                                                              

6) Apia, Upoli, Samoa Pt 1

August 2008: South Pacific

Apia, Upoli, Samoa Part 1 (S 13.50 W 171.55) 

                I am currently sitting here on the final day of our stay in Apia and doing a little backtracking.  The day of departure from Pago Pago was a little interesting.  We took an early morning bus ride to the medical center/clinic to pick up some anti-malaria pills needed for our trek into Vanuatu and experienced another aspect of American Samoa.  The buses have blaring music ranging from hip-hop to island tunes.  I even recognized Hotel California by the Eagles with an island flavor and it was really good.  Uh oh, I’ve been here too long.  The bus ride and the chickens roaming around outside the entrances to the 1-story hospital should be expected.  We had a nice little chat with the doc who has only been here 3 weeks and got some great information and guidance.  A couple years ago I got some malaria pills from Kaiser for a trek to Panama and the warning literature impressed me enough to not take them.  Apparently, the U.S. is the only country prescribing that particular drug which has severe side effects like going crazy.  Europe has banned it and nobody else promotes it.  We got a prescription for Doxycycline Hyclate and was instructed to take them 2-days before we arrive and continue for 1-month after we leave.  There is no shot available to prevent malaria and these pills will prevent the parasite from replicating and surviving in the blood.  These cute little teal-green pills are the only thing standing between us and the little bugs.  I mentioned to the doc that if he sees on CNN 3 guys floating around in the Pacific having apparently lost their minds then he might have to answer some questions.  

 
                   There were many aspects of American Samoa that were appealing but our particular experience was deeply affected by where we dropped the hook.  Being downwind of the tuna factory has left a lasting impression as far as our memory and there is even stink in the anchor locker on the rode to confirm.  Unfortunately, the only place to anchor in Pago Pago is downwind of the factory.  The festival kept us there and Charlie the Tuna scared us away.  

   

                All was not lost, though.  We provisioned, saw some great scenery and picked up some diesel relatively cheap.  Diesel, so, this port is not cruiser friendly if you are looking to take on fuel.  First, you make an appointment to take on fuel but that place is not where you get the fuel; it’s where you pay.  Then on the day of your appointment the time gets changed.  We were told to get to the fuel dock during high tide and that was some of the best advice we could have gotten.  The fuel dock caters to the cargo vessels and fishing fleet and the bumpers are huge and high off the water.  We had enough time to take on fuel before we got below the bumpers but still rushed off.  The first hose and handle they brought us was similar in size to gas stations and they figured it was good for the small boats.  I was holding the dangerous end inside of a funnel filter which was in the fuel inlet on the boat when the pressure was turned on.  This poor little handle had seen better days.  It seems the black flexible hose where it attached to the handle had deteriorated enough that a nice stream of fuel came spraying out.  It sprayed me and the boat before I could get it turned enough to direct it overboard.  Yes, I fueled the bay.  I had enough on me and at that time was just trying to reduce the damage to the boat.  This little mishap earned us the opportunity to use the big boy fill handle.  This one was a touch bigger and heavier and could do some real damage.  

   

                Just when it was time to go to the fuel dock this boat came in.  We needed to be on the other side of it and up to the same area.  My clothes have since been rinsed in soapy water, hung in the sun, given up on and placed in zip-locs and will finally go to a laundry service tomorrow.  Bye-bye Pago Pago.