August 2008: South Pacific
Apia, Upoli, Samoa Part 2 (S 13.50 W 171.55)
Credit must be given where due and that is to the new Apia Marina. We were greeted just inside the greater bay area that this marina was built in and escorted to our slip. There were several dockworkers available and lots of extra help; maybe too much. After finding the right size slip and getting tied-off the hospitality really kicked in. There were four different officials needed for our clearance and they were the most efficient any of us has ever seen. Nice way to begin the stay.
As usual in a new port a reconnaissance is taken on. The other Dave and I set out to see what’s around this town and in no special order we were looking for: ATM, grocery store, ice cream, internet, farmer’s market, etc. OK and a local bar for an ice cold beer. We did find the watering hole after walking around town and we did suffer down another Vailima, the local Samoan beer. This is not our favorite beer and seems to be the most popular one here. Ugh. Funny thing is that it took a day or so before we discovered the ice cream shop directly across the street from the marina! If you look to the right of the tower in the picture below you can see a golden M that must mark the spot.
Granted, we were really thirsty with all that walking and Apia was hot and muggy but seriously we just got here and all that beer would take us at least a week to drink.
This particular internet/gaming, uhm, place was different than all others I have seen. Unfortunately it was upstairs and a little warm. The internet, yah it’s still around, seems to be everywhere, almost. These places are usually pretty busy, too. It’s nice to be able to get weather information and just general e/m stuff to allay the feeling of being out of the loop.
I really like to go into local markets such as grocery stores, produce markets and fish markets to get another glimpse into the local life. Apia did not disappoint. The indoor flea-market was packed with trinkets, produce vendors and a large prepared-food court all an ordered chaos. We must’ve been here at a peak time as it was packed. The produce market several blocks away was something else all together. Immediately after you enter and on the left is a small gathering of men sitting around the Ava bowl. I was enlightened as to the water quality and after a second thought I did not partake. In my own way I beat that game though in buying a small dry bag of the prepared pepper plant and now I can make 5-gallons of the brew when I get home. I have not acquired an Ava bowl because the one I want is quite large and heavy. The bowl costs about $80 USD and the DHL shipping costs over $200 USD. There is a particular design that is fairly basic with many thin legs holding it up. We saw it and drank from it in Pago Pago and here in Apia they use the same style. Although, there are many other versions with beautiful intricate carvings and leg styles that are very tempting.
At the flea market and the produce market there was a section in the corner near the entrance where the Ava was. Usually a group of men were sitting around and one person was scooping and serving. In the center of the picture above are the small bags of Ava for sale. Each bag will make 5-gallons. Yes, an Ava/BBQ is on the list of things to do when I get home.
We wanted to visit Savai’i after leaving Apia and knew that we needed clearance before going there. Bob had to do a little legwork (meaning a couple trips and some other stuff) in order to apply and get an authorization in the form of a letter. We were advised to give this letter to an official in Savai’i.
We did some pre-departure stuff and one of them was laundry. Luckily, there was a Laundromat within a couple blocks. I told the worker that was handling my clothes that there was some diesel on the items in the Ziplocs. I should have been more specific. I think I needed to say use soap or use more soap because that small load of my clothes now all smell a little like diesel. I hung the diesel splashed shirt and shorts off the back of the boat and hope they magically give up the stink.
While waiting for the laundry the other Dave and I saw several people walking down the street with pink cake boxes. Like moths to a flame we found the bakery. The owner was very nice and offered us a ‘mistake’ in the form of a chocolate cake with cream filling. Several times I have stepped onboard with a box of donuts for a departure but since we could not find any this would do.
(This is a clip of Present Moment leaving Apia for Savai'i.)
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