August 2008: South Pacific
Makogai Island, Fiji pt 1 (S 17.26.556 E 178.57.095)
A short distance from Savusavu is the gem of Makogai Island. We wanted to make this stop as it is the place where giant clams can be seen underwater on snorkel. From offshore this is a very small island and the few buildings on the waterfront make it look even smaller. The dense growth of the trees and shrubs pretty much hide anything if there is anything more. Bob and the other Dave went snorkeling and ended up onshore. They were able to set a 2pm meeting with the chief for a short tour.
It has been the case that most of the shorelines we’ve seen are rocky and don’t favor dinghy landings. So, the final distance depending on depth is covered slowly with a watchful eye for rocks near the surface. This transit had us floating over giant clams, but they were safe from us. The usual landing has us getting out in a couple feet of water and then carrying the dinghy to dry land and tying it off to a tree. We were quickly met by the chief Kemele upon which we exchanged names and then presented him with the traditional gift of bundled Kava root as well as some extra stuff such as candy and toys for the kids, fishing gear and canned foods.
The first impressions of the island hide the history and current story. Kemele was very warm, polite and soft spoken and eager to share his part of the island with us. There is another village about 5 kilometers away with several other families but we did not want to make the trek thru the jungle to get there. He told us that he is originally from Kadavu, Fiji and works for the government at this clam farm. The intent of the farm is to produce clams that can be shipped to other farms and raised for food. The concrete water tanks onshore are holding tanks for spawning and raising young clams. Once they reach 3 centimeters they are put in cages in the bay and left on their own. In order to help the spawning process it takes three guys and some rope to go out and get a full grown clam and bring it in to the tanks. After spawning it is returned to the bay and they just rest on the sand bottom as they are so heavy. We tried to pick up an empty clam shell and it was impossible as it weighed a couple hundred or more pounds. He said that one clam will produce about 6-7 kilos of meat in a 10 year growth period.
Based on the size of the clams in the bay this place is successful. The clams were originally brought from New Zealand and have since been harvested almost to extinction in Fiji. This farm hopes to bring them back as well as create a food supply.
It is hard to look at this place and see the living conditions and not be affected. It looks like poverty but they are clothed, have a roof and the children look well fed. The sad problem going on here is that for 2-3 months they have gone without fuel to power the generator for island electricity. Due to a coup and government instability this clam farm has stopped operating and these people are subsisting without funding. Strange as it sounds we saw Kemele and his son walk out to the tiny island at low tide on a spit of connecting land to make a cell phone call. That’s the only place his phone works. In the mean time he has a solar panel on his house and is able to operate his TV and DVD player.
Above is Kemele’s house. In the rear there is a covered shed with a fire that is used for cooking. We briefly stood here making introductions and then started walking down a path for a tour. This island has a wealth of history dating well back. Back to the turn of the century this island was a Leper colony wherein they were sent here from most of the islands in the South Pacific. At one time there were at least five-thousand people living on this island. Walking through the jungle we saw remnants of concrete foundations, steps, sheds, a jail and a large concrete foundation slab with a vertical slab still standing that was the movie theater screen. Overshadowing the clam tanks were steps that led to the 2nd story of a building that is no longer there. And of course, the remains of an old Range Rover, well the frame at least, rusted and overgrown. Why they needed a car and where the road is I don’t know. Granted, years have gone by and the island is reclaiming its own.
A very somber reminder of where we were and what this place used to be was a walk through the cemetery. The stones are neatly arranged and run up the hill well into the jungle. He says that people from all over the islands come here and look for graves of relatives. He is unable to help as so many of them are unmarked or indecipherable due to deterioration. Concrete in the tropics eventually fades away.
